By Will Rietveld
Kora Shola baselayers are made of Yak wool, and Kora is the
only company that purchases Yak wool from Tibetan nomadic herders and processes
it into fabric. Yaks are the cattle of the Tibetan Plateau; they are raised for
their milk, meat, hides, and wool, and are used as pack and work animals as
well. Yaks survive at 4000 to 5000 meters due to their soft wooly undercoat
that protects them from the winter cold. The yaks naturally shed their wooly undercoat
in summer, and herders simply pluck the wool as it is shed; there is no
shearing as with Merino sheep.
Why Yak wool? Research by Kora has shown that, compared to
an equivalent weight of merino wool fabric, Yak wool fabric is 40% warmer, 66%
more breathable, and 17% better at transporting water vapor, as well as being
lighter and softer (like cashmere).
The Kora Shola 230 Zip-T is made of Yak wool and is claimed to be 40% warmer, 66% more breathable, and 17% better at transporting water vapor compared to a similar weight of merino wool. |
I tested the Kora Shola 230 Zip-T to evaluate the
performance of a Yak wool baselayer. FYI, a Kora is a devotional practice of trekking
around a sacred mountain. I didn’t exactly do that, but I tested the baselayer
on numerous trips (mostly snow sports) in the Southern
Rockies to check it out.
Specifications and Features
Manufacturer
|
Kora (www.kora.net
|
Product
|
Shola 230 Zip-T
|
Fabric
|
100% Yak wool, 230 grams/square meter
|
Weight
|
10.15 oz (men’s Large)
|
Features
|
12 in front zipper, stand up collar, extra long body and
sleeves, flat-locked seams, set-in sleeves, dropped tail
|
MSRP
|
$160
|
Description
Kora is a British company launched in 2013. They purchase
fair trade Yak wool from a cooperative of nomadic herders on the Tibetan
Plateau, then ship the wool to three factories in adjacent China for
processing, knitting, and sewing.
Presently Kora offers a Yak wool zip-T and crew neck in
men’s and women’s versions, bottoms, and a hooded jacket. The base layers all
use 230 grams/square meter fabric, which is mid-weight. Sewing details, sizing,
and fit are excellent. Other fabrics and garments are in the pipeline.
Because of its thermal benefits to the original Yak, and its
claimed superiority over merino wool in terms of warmth, breathability, and
moisture transfer, the Kola 230 Zip-T is primarily intended as a cold/cool
weather baselayer. The focus is clearly on warmth and comfort. For its premium
quality and price, an avid outdoors person should be able to detect significant
warmth and extended range of comfort benefits from a lighter weight garment,
compared to merino wool.
Field Testing
For comparison, I wore an Icebreaker 260 weight merino zip-T
while trail running to see if I could detect a noticeable difference between it
and the Kora Shola 230 (Icebreaker doesn’t have a 230 weight baselayer for a
direct comparison). On those days I ran a 3.5 mile loop with 1000 feet of
elevation gain and loss on packed snow in 20-35F temperatures, and then weighed
the baselayer when I got home to determine moisture accumulation.
I know this is a subjective evaluation, but I will relate my
experiences with the Shola as accurately as I can.
I found the construction quality and fit to be excellent. I
like the extra long body; it doesn’t pull out when I bend over. And the sleeves
are plenty long for my long arms. The cuffs do not have thumb loops. The fabric
feels soft and warm against my skin and is not itchy. The flat-locked seams
prevented any skin abrasion.
From testing the Shola Zip-T in snow sports and hiking, my
impressions are that it is softer next to skin, remarkably warm, and has a
broad comfort range. When worn under a highly breathable hardshell made of
eVent DVS fabric, the combination provided warmth and sustained comfort while
actively skiing or hiking in cold/cool temperatures down to about 15F; below
that I added a fleece midlayer. What was remarkable was 1) the baselayer never
felt clammy with the jacket fully zipped, and 2) its extended comfort range,
out to about 50F before I had to open the front zipper of the jacket, and
eventually take the jacket off.
I wore the Shola on 23 outings before I washed it for the
first time, and there was no detectable smell. The garment smelled like a wet
dog when it was wet, but that smell went away when it dried. After the washing
I wore the Shola full-time for four days on an 8 mile ski trip to a mountain
cabin and daily backcounty sojourns from the cabin; still no smells. The Shola
also does not have any detectable pilling after wearing it on 36 outings.
My comparisons of the Shola Zip-T with an Icebreaker 260 Zip-T
were all done on trail runs, as described above. With a breathable jacket worn
over the Shola, the moisture accumulation in the baselayer was 1.9 ounces,
compared to 2.3 ounces for the Icebreaker 260. For the baselayers worn by
themselves (no jacket over them) the Kora accumulated 0.6 ounces of moisture
while the Icebreaker accumulated 0.45 ounces. The results are very similar.
Assessment
The Kora Shola Zip-T is clearly a premium and elegant baselayer
that is exceptionally well designed and sewn. And it has a premium price tag,
about one-third more than a comparable merino wool baselayer.
So, does it perform better? Well, from my experience, it
feels softer against my skin and softer to the touch, like cashmere. It is
finely woven, and shows no signs of pilling. For active winter sports in colder
weather, worn under a shell jacket or alone on warmer days, I was very pleased
with its warmth, breathability, and comfort. In my opinion, it’s a measure
better than a comparable merino wool baselayer.
However, when I pushed it to its limits by wearing it under
a hardshell jacket while trail running, it accumulated a lot of moisture by the
end of my run, the same as the merino wool baselayer. So they both accumulate
moisture when confined under a shell, which is understandable. When either one
was worn alone while trail running in cool temperatures, they accumulated some
sweat but were still comfortable and warm.
Overall, from a performance standpoint, the Kora SholaYak
wool baselayer lives up to its claims. It’s remarkably soft, warm, breathable,
and moisture transmitting during moderate aerobic activity in cold/cool
weather. However, I did not directly compare the Kora to a merino baselayer for
snow sports. When I compared the two while trail running, the performance was
basically the same.
From a weight standpoint, the Shola provides more warmth and
performance in a lighter weight garment, about 3 ounces lighter than a merino
baselayer.
From a cost standpoint, the Shola costs about $40 more than the Icebreaker 260 Zip-T I compared it with. People reading this review will ask if the extra warmth and performance is worth the extra cost. My response is you basically get what you pay for; you will not be disappointed with the Kora Shola. A high-tech cycling jacket or fleece top costs about the same, so the $160 cost is not unusual.
From a cost standpoint, the Shola costs about $40 more than the Icebreaker 260 Zip-T I compared it with. People reading this review will ask if the extra warmth and performance is worth the extra cost. My response is you basically get what you pay for; you will not be disappointed with the Kora Shola. A high-tech cycling jacket or fleece top costs about the same, so the $160 cost is not unusual.