Monday, January 29, 2018

Highlights from the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2018: Introduction + New Technologies and Trends

By Will Rietveld and Janet Reichl

OR Moves to Denver

Following through on its ultimatum to leave Utah if Utah politicians persist with their push to privatize public lands, the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show has moved to Denver Colorado, in a state that strongly values its public lands and their connection to people and business. This was the first show at their new home at the Colorado Convention Center in downtown Denver. As you can see from the photo, the Colorado Convention Center is a beautiful facility, with enough room (barely) to contain the entire trade show under one roof, and provide easy access to hotels and restaurants.

The Colorado Convention Center in downtown Denver has 2.2 million square feet of exhibit space, meeting rooms, ballrooms, and a theatre. (Photo by US Green Building Council)


We couldn’t help but compare the facility to the Salt Palace in Salt Lake City. Navigation was easier in the Salt Palace because we had some landmarks to go by, but on the enormous rectangular conference center floor at the Colorado Convention Center it was very challenging to navigate. More signage is definitely needed for the next shows in July and August. We also missed the good people in Salt Lake City who (contrary to Utah politicians) worked hard to accommodate the many needs of the trade show and its attendees.

Sustainability

The outdoor industry is one of the most progressive in the world in terms of sustainable manufacturing and strongly supporting our public lands. Over the past few years manufacturers have made great strides to reduce environmental impacts from the manufacture of their products and increased use of recycled content. Congratulations and thank you!

The elimination of PFC-based DWRs is a case in point. The problem is the process contaminates a huge amount of water. The current substitutes have a serious downside; they don't last very long. However, a new chemistry developed by Green Theme International (http://www.greenthemeint.com/) called Aquavent is completely waterless and outperforms previous water-repellent finishes. They call it a HDF (High Definition Finish) rather than a DWR. Briefly, the chemical is cross-linked to the fibers through a heat and pressure process, which is amenable to adding dyes, antimicrobials, etc. at the same time. It becomes part of the fiber rather than a surface coating on fabric. The treated fiber is then woven into fabric. And fabric treated via the Aquavent process is softer and less slippery, and doesn’t need to be restored like a conventional DWR.

Marmot will be introducing Aquavent treated rainwear in their ECODry line of garments for spring 2018. The Phoenix Jacket (above, $175, 7 ounces) is the lightest one in the line. Pants are also available. (Marmot photo)

Gore-Tex Infinium

Gore made the biggest reveal since their original Gore-Tex fabric – they are moving beyond waterproof/breathable fabrics with the introduction of Gore-Tex Infinium technologies in fall 2018. Infinium technologies are comfort-tested performance constructions in four categories: soft-lined garments, insulated garments, stretch gloves, and footwear. These products move Gore beyond waterproof/breathable fabrics. Utilizing the Gore Biophysics Lab and Environmental Chamber in Maryland, Gore will develop constructions (combinations of fabric, membrane, insulation, linings, etc.) with optimized performance, which includes breathability, stretch, water-resistance, wind-resistance, warmth, moisture management, thermal management, form fit, and comfort. Those attributes will be optimized to the purpose of the garment. The majority of these constructions will be water-resistant, but not waterproof, and will be tagged with a white diamond logo. Current waterproof fabric constructions will continue to be tagged with the familiar Gore-Tex black diamond.

To be clear, Gore will work with garment brands to develop and test desired Infinium constructions, and the garments will be manufactured and sold by those other brands. This is the same model as the present Gore-Tex waterproof-breathable fabrics.  Gore Wear, their internal house brand, will also leverage some of these technologies.

Some examples of Gore Infinium:

Gore-Tex Infinium Soft-Line Garments will feature a thin Gore-Tex ePTFE membrane on the outside, which is nearly invisible on the left jacket, but makes the right one look much like a leather jacket. They are stitched-through so they are highly wind-resistant and breathable, but not waterproof.

Gore-Tex Infinium Insulated Garments can have a thin ePTFE membrane on the outside, over down or synthetic insulation, to provide breathability as well as wind and water resistance. For Fall 2018, Gore, working with strategic brand partners, will unveil Gore-Tex Infinium Thermium footwear in a line of women’s shoes built for everyday lifestyle use.

The existing Gore-Tex Windstopper technology, as in this wind and water-resistant softshell, will move into the Infinium category.

Synthetic Insulations Put the Heat on Down

At each succeeding OR we see more advances in synthetic insulation to make it more closely mimic down insulation and marketing to advance consumer acceptance. It’s working; a recent survey published in Outdoor Insight Magazine found that 37% of respondents prefer synthetic insulation, 28% prefer wool, and only 25% look for down. Puffy jackets are nice and warm, but consumers seem to prefer less bulky closer-fitting synthetic jackets that are also warm. Manufacturers like synthetic too, because insulation prices are not as volatile as down.

Polartec introduced their new Power Fill insulation for static warmth, which is 80% post-consumer recycled polyester content. Unlike Polartec Alpha insulation, which is breathable insulation intended for active comfort, Power Fill is intended to keep you warm when you are less active. It comes in sheets in six weights (60 grams to 120 grams), is quite durable, and does not require a carrier scrim to hold it in place.

 
Primaloft is introducing Thermoplume, which are clusters of polyester insulation (virgin, not recycled) which can be blown into the baffles of a jacket, creating a down-like feel and performance. This type of insulation is in the Primaloft Black category and is available now. The insulation value is roughly equivalent to 550 fill-power.

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